|CONVERTER HOUSING & OUTPUT GEAR||
The engine/transmission unit must be removed from the car to enable the converter housing to be removed.|
1. Remove the torque converter as detailed previously.
2. Remove the securing bolts and detach the low pressure valve, together with its gasket from the lower face of the converter housing .
3. Remove the self-locking nut from the transmission input shaft, previously covered by the low pressure valve. It will be necessary to hold the crankshaft to prevent it turning while the nut is removed, and a tool which fits over the output gear splines, similar to that shown in the illustration, will be required.
4. Disconnect the selector linkage bell crank lever from the transverse rod on the transmission. Remove the lever pivot bolt (or nut on early models) and detach the bell crank lever from the converter housing. On early models, also unscrew the pivot stud from the housing.
5. Fit tape or foil over the splines of the converter output gear to protect the converter housing oil seal as the housing is removed. This will be unnecessary if the seal is to be renewed anyway. A proper protector sleeve is available as a special tool, but the makeshift solution above will do the same job if a bit of care is used.
6. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the converter housing to the engine and transmission unit . Partially withdraw the housing, then disconnect the converter oil feed pipe from the housing.
7. The converter housing can then be fully withdrawn and the housing gasket removed. The needle bearing of the idler gear shaft and the transmission input gear bearing will come away with the converter housing.
8. Withdraw the 'C' shaped thrust washer locating the converter output gear on the crankshaft, and slide off the backing ring, output gear and front thrust washer .
Inspection & Overhaul - Converter Housing
If required, the idler gear shaft needle bearing in the converter housing can be renewed in a similar manner to that described for the idler gear bearing in the flywheel housing on manual transmission models previously.
The transmission input gear bearing can be renewed, if necessary, by removing the circlip and pressing the bearing from the housing. Install the new bearing and secure with the circlip.
Also check that the converter housing bush has not come loose in its housing.
If worn or damaged, the output gear oil seal in the converter housing can be renewed as detailed under the appropriate heading previously.
1. Ensure that the mating faces of the converter housing, cylinder block and transmission casing are clean and free from old gasket material.
2. If the idler gear or idler gear thrust washers have been changed, it will be necessary to check the idler gear endfloat and adjust if necessary, as detailed under the 'TRANSMISSION UNIT' heading later in this section.
3. If the converter output gear or thrust washers have been changed, the gear end-float should be checked and adjusted in a similar manner to that described for the crankshaft primary gear on manual models previously.
4. Fit the protector sleeve or tape over the converter output gear splines to protect the converter housing oil seal.
5. Two pilot bars, made up and screwed into the two bottom tapped holes in the cylinder, similar to those shown in , will help locate the converter housing in position during installation and take the weight off the converter output gear oil seal.
6. Ensure the transmission input gear shims and the idler gear thrust washer are correctly in position on their respective gear shafts.
7. Position a new housing gasket on the engine/transmission face.
8. Lubricate the converter housing oil seal and fit the converter housing into position, connecting the converter oil feed pipe to the housing. Ensure that the oil feed pipe and the nylon pipe assembly at the valve block are aligned, then push the housing fully home.
9. Secure the housing in position with the retaining nuts and bolts. Note that those with the LJNC (coarse) threads secure the housing to the transmission casing, while those threaded UNF (fine) screw into the cylinder block.
10. Refit the washer and self-locking nut to the transmission input shaft and tighten to 70 lb ft (9.7 kg m) while again holding the converter output gear from turning.
11. Refit the selector linkage bell crank lever and reconnect it to the transverse rod.
12. Refit the low pressure valve to the lower face of the converter housing, using a new gasket.
13. Finally, refit the torque converter noting the points given previously.