*25 - best to put the box in reverse and dift out the pin closest to the box.
Removal .
1. Disconnect the earth strap from the battery.
2. Remove the bonnet, after first marking the fitted position of the hinges to facilitate alignment when refitting. On some models it will also be necessary to remove the front grille to obtain access to some of the engine components. The grille is secured in position by self-tapping screws.
3. Where fitted, release the heater air intake tube from the front grille and wing valance and secure it clear of the engine. Some later models have a plastic air intake assembly at the right-hand front wing valance and this should be removed after releasing the flexible pipe from beneath the wing.
4. Where the horn is mounted on the bonnet locking platform, disconnect and remove the horn.
5. Drain the cooling system by removing the cylinder block drain plug and/or disconnecting the bottom hose at the radiator.
6. Where required, remove the sump plug and drain the oil out of the engine/transmission unit.
7. Disconnect the heater hose from the adaptor on the radiator bottom hose. Detach the heater water control valve from the rear of the cylinder head and secure it clear of the engine with the hose and cable still attached.
8. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe, fuel supply hose and engine breather pipe (where fitted) from the carburettor. Disconnect the throttle return spring from the carburettor. Remove the carburettor and position it to one side with the throttle and choke cables still attached. Where a cable abutment plate is fitted between the carburettor and the inlet manifold, the plate should be removed with the carburettor.
9. Remove the windscreen washer bottle and bracket, if necessary.
10. Disconnect the exhaust down pipe from the exhaust manifold flange.
11. On early 127 5 GT models which have a brake servo unit, disconnect the servo unit vacuum pipe and detach the servo from the right-hand wing valance. It should not be necessary to disconnect the brake pipes as these can be carefully bent to position the unit out of the way once the pipe securing clip has been detached.
12. Disconnect the clutch operating lever return spring at the slave cylinder and detach the slave cylinder from the flywheel housing. It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic hose. Suspend the cylinder from a suitable point on the bulkhead.
13. Remove the ignition shield from the front of the engine, where fitted. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and ignition coil and remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. This avoids the possibility of damage to the cap or arm while the engine is being removed. Label the plug leads with their respective cylinder numbers to facilitate reassembly.
14. Disconnect the starter cable from the starter motor. Where the starter solenoid is mounted on the flywheel housing, detach the solenoid and place it in some suitable position out of the way.
15. Disconnect all other electrical connections from the engine (coil, temperature sender, oil pressure switch, etc). Label the leads if necessary to ensure correct connection on reassembly.
16. Disconnect the engine earth strap from the engine; normally attached to one of the clutch cover bolts at the flywheel housing, or the engine tie-rod on later models.
17. Disconnect the oil pressure gauge pipe, where fitted.
18. Disconnect the engine tie-rod from the rear of the cylinder block and swing it clear or remove it completely.
19. On models with a centrally situated speedometer, disconnect the speedo cable from the rear of the instrument. On other models, the cable must be disconnect from the transmission casing once the power unit has been partially raised.
20. On models with a mechanical fuel pump, disconnect the fuel supply pipe from the pump inlet. Plug the pipe end to prevent loss of fuel.
21. Jack up the front of the car and support on stands located under the sub-frame side-members.
22. Detach the exhaust pipe support bracket from the final drive unit casing. Secure the pipe against the bulkhead and out of the way.
23. On early models without the remote control type gearchange, remove the hexagon plug and withdraw the anti-rattle spring and plunger from the gearbox extension. From inside the car, remove the two bolts securing the gear lever retaining plate and pull the lever out of the casing into the car.
24. On models with the early extension housing type remote control gear change; from underneath the car, remove the four bolts securing the gear change extension to the transmission casing and separate the extension housing from the final drive unit casing. It will allow sufficient clearance if the extension housing is merely allowed to hang down under the car. Retain the halfmoon rubber plug fitted at the extension housing mating face.
25. On later models with rod type remote control gearchange, drift out the roll-pin securing the remote control extension rod to the selector shaft and separate the extension rod from the selector shaft. Remove the through-bolt securing the remote control steady rod fork to the final drive unit housing and release the steady rod.
26. On later models, detach the engine lower tie-rod from the rear of the gearbox casing and swing the tie-rod clear of the power unit.
27. On early models with the rubber coupling type drive shafts, disconnect the drive shafts from the final drive unit by removing the coupling 'U' bolts.
28. On later models with the offset sphere type inboard joint on the drive shaft, disconnect both drive shafts from the final drive unit housing as detailed in the 'FRONT SUSPENSION' section. This involves removing the road wheel, disconnecting the track rod end from the steering arm and separating the upper swivel joint ball pin from the upper suspension arm. The drive shafts can then be withdrawn from the inboard joints, then reconnect the swivel joints and track rods and refit the road wheels.
29. Remove the stands and lower the car back onto its wheels.
30. Attach a suitable lift bracket to the engine. The most common type attaches to two of the cylinder head studs at the front edge of the engine and obviates the need for removing the rocker cover which some other types of lifting bracket require.
31. Support the weight of the engine with lifting tackle, then remove the bolts and nuts securing the engine mountings to the sub-frame at each end of the power unit.
32. Lift the engine sufficiently to ensure that the drive shafts are properly disengaged from the final drive unit housing.
33. At this point, if the speedometer cable has not already been disconnected, it can now be unscrewed from the drive housing on the transmission casing.
34. Carefully lift the engine/transmission unit, complete with the radiator assembly, out of the engine compartment. Where a two position lifting bracket is being used, the straight lift position should now be used instead of the angled-lift one which should have been used to clear the final drive unit of the bulkhead.


Installation is basically a reversal of the removal procedure, but special attention should be paid to the following points: -
a) Where appropriate, reconnect the speedo cable to the drive housing on the transmission casing while the transmission unit is only partially lowered into the engine compartment. If this operation is left till later it will be much more difficult.
b) On models without the remote control type gearchange, pull the gear lever up into the car before the engine/transmission unit is lowered into position.
c) On models with the offset sphere type inboard drive shaft joints, ensure the drive shafts are positioned clear of the inboard joints while lowering the engine/transmission unit into position. When assembling the drive shafts to the inboard joints the circlip in the end of the shaft must be compressed and the drive shaft pushed smartly into the joint to lock it in position. Reconnect the upper swivel joint and track rod end and refit the road wheel.
d) On models with the earlier rubber coupling type drive shafts, keep the sliding joints pushed well on to the drive shaft splines while the rubber couplings are moved into position at the final drive unit flanges.
e) On models with the early type remote control gearchange, ensure the half-moon rubber plug is correctly located between the extension housing and the transmission casing when reconnecting the extension housing. Also ensure that the gearchange rod on the transmission engages correctly with the primary shaft in the extension housing.
f) When installation is complete, refill the cooling system, and engine/transmission unit where required. Start the engine and check for oil, water, fuel or exhaust leaks.
g) Finally, check the ignition and idle settings and adjust if necessary.